Development
From your sketch to a fit-approved sample, then bulk.
Two senior pattern makers, each with more than 20 years in intimates, draft your pattern by hand or in CAD and stay with your style until the pre-production sample is signed off. From brief to shipment takes about 50 days.
How development works
Five steps, and how long each one takes.
The same pattern makers stay with your style from the first draft to the pre-production sample, so fit decisions are never lost in a handover.
- 1
Brief review
About 2 days
We check your sketch or tech pack, suggest materials and quote the sampling.
- 2
First sample
About 10 days
Pattern drafted by hand or in CAD, then cut and sewn as a first sample.
- 3
Fit rounds
About 5 days a round
You review the fit; we adjust the pattern and sew again. Most styles take two rounds.
- 4
Size set
About 7 days
The pattern is graded to your size chart and a pre-production sample goes to you.
- 5
Bulk production
About 20 days
Cutting, sewing, inspection and packing with your labels, then shipment.
Timings are calendar days. Sampling is charged per style and credited against your bulk order.
Style SD117, from first sketch to finished set.
A mesh top with lace trims, a bra and matching briefs from our range, shown as a sketch, a CAD flat, the pattern and the finished set.
- Sketch
- The idea is sketched first, so proportions, lace placement and trims are agreed before a pattern is cut.
- CAD flat
- Front and back views with every seam, binding, stitch line and trim marked, with the key measurements.
- Pattern
- Each piece is drafted with its cut line, sewing line and grain, then laid into a marker: nine sets of size M per lay.
- Finished
- The pieces are cut and sewn into a sample, fitted, then made in bulk.
Measurements, construction and marker, size M
| Point | Point of measure | cm |
|---|---|---|
| A | Front length, HPS to hem seam | 34.9 |
| B | Across shoulder | 37.6 |
| C | Front neck drop | 7.9 |
| D | Sleeve opening, flat | 16.2 |
| E | Side seam | 12.5 |
| G | Wing length | 20.8 |
| H | Centre gore height | 4.4 |
| J | Front waist seam | 36.6 |
| K | Front rise to gusset seam | 7.3 |
| L | Back waist seam | 36.6 |
| M | Back rise | 13.1 |
| N | Gusset length | 16.7 |
Mesh measured on the production pattern, net.
Construction
- Centre-front lace, scalloped edge
- Cuff lace
- Hem lace
- Neckline bound in white
- Pearl button at centre front
- Lace cups on underwire
- Adjustable straps, O-ring and slider
- Hook and eye at back
- White bow with lips charm
- Leg openings bound in white
- Lace waistband
Marker
- 9 sets per lay · 2.85 m × 1.59 m
- 77% fabric use on the marker
- 8 pattern pieces, 11 cut per set
Pattern room
Two pattern makers, more than 40 years of drafting between them.
Our pattern makers are also our designers. Both are long-serving members of our factory team, and they draft on paper or in CAD, whichever suits the style.
What you can bring us
- A sketch or mood board
- A full tech pack
- A reference garment or photo
- One of our styles to adapt
What we construct
- Underwire and moulded cups
- Lace scalloping and appliqué
- Strappy harness and cage designs
- Boning and corsetry
- Men’s contour pouch
- Costume collars, cuffs and headpieces
Your brief
What to send for an accurate quote.
No tech pack yet? A sketch, a reference photo or a garment is enough to start. Send files by email or WhatsApp.
01
The design
Your sketch, tech pack, reference photo or garment, or the number of one of our styles you want to adapt.
02
Quantity and sizes
Your target quantity per colour and size, and your size chart if you have one. We grade the pattern to it.
03
Materials and timing
The fabrics, colours, labels and packaging you have in mind, and when you want to launch.
FAQ
Questions about sampling.
How long does sampling take?
About 10 days for the first sample once we have confirmed your brief, then about 5 days for each revision. Most styles are approved after two rounds.
Do you charge for samples?
Yes, per style. The sampling fee is credited against your bulk order.
Can you work from a sketch without a tech pack?
Yes. Our pattern makers are also designers, so a sketch, a reference photo or a garment is enough to start.
What sizes do you make?
Regular sizes S/M to L/XL, plus sizes 1X/2X to 3X/4X, and one size. Our size guide lists body measurements and UK, US, EU, Australian and Japanese equivalents. For development we grade the pattern to your own size chart.
How long does bulk production take?
About 20 days after you approve the pre-production sample, depending on quantity and materials. From brief to shipment, a new style takes about 50 days.
What is your minimum order?
Minimums depend on the style, the fabric and your range, so treat these as starting points. ODM development is usually 120 pieces per colour, per size. Private label on an in-stock style is usually around 36 pieces per colour, with sizes mixed. Ready stock starts at 3 pieces per style and colour. Tell us your quantities and we will tell you what is possible.
Tell us what you want to make.
Send a sketch, a tech pack or a style number. We reply within one working day.