From sketch to bulk: how a lingerie style is developed, step by step.
At our factory in Yiwu a new lingerie style goes through five steps: brief review, first sample, fit rounds, size set and bulk production. From an agreed brief to shipment usually takes about 50 days. You do not need a full tech pack to start; a sketch, a photo or a garment is enough.
The five steps
- Brief review, about 2 days. We read your sketch or tech pack, suggest fabrics and trims, and quote the sampling.
- First sample, about 10 days. One of our two senior pattern makers drafts the pattern by hand or in CAD, then the sample is cut and sewn.
- Fit rounds, about 5 days each. You check the fit, we correct the pattern and sew again. Most styles are approved after two rounds.
- Size set, about 7 days. The approved pattern is graded to your size chart and a pre-production sample is sent for sign-off.
- Bulk production, about 20 days. Cutting, sewing, eight quality checks and packing with your labels, then shipment. Large orders take longer.
All timings are calendar days. With two fit rounds, the total from brief to shipment is about 50 days.
The same pattern maker stays with your style from the first draft to the pre-production sample, so fit decisions are not lost in a handover.
What to send for an accurate quote
- The design: a sketch, mood board, tech pack, reference photo or garment, or the number of one of our styles to adapt.
- Quantity and sizes: your target quantity per colour and size, and your size chart if you have one.
- Materials and timing: the fabrics, colours, labels and packaging you have in mind, and your launch date.
What the pattern room does with it
Take our style SD117, a mesh shrug, lace bra and brief. The sketch is turned into a technical flat with every seam, binding and trim marked. The pattern is then cut into 11 mesh pieces per set, each with a cutting line, a sewing line and a grain line, and laid into a marker: nine sets of size M fit on one lay, using about 77% of the fabric. Only then is the first sample cut.
See SD117 go from sketch to finished set
What it costs
Sampling is charged per style. The sampling fee is credited against your bulk order. The usual minimum for a developed style is 120 pieces per colour, per size, and we adjust it where we can. How the minimum is counted
FAQ
Questions buyers ask.
Can you work from a sketch only?
Yes. Our pattern makers are also designers, so a sketch, a photo or a garment is enough to start.
Can you make underwired or moulded-cup styles?
Yes: underwire and moulded cups, lace scalloping and appliqué, strappy harness designs, boning and corsetry, and men’s contour pouches.
Which sizes do you grade?
Our own sets run from S/M to 3X/4X plus one size. For development we grade to your size chart.
What makes development slower?
Extra fit rounds, fabrics or trims that have to be sourced, and late changes after the size set.
Start a development.
Send a sketch, a tech pack or a style number. We reply within one working day.